How to Set Gem Stones in Metal Clay: Techniques and Tips

How to Set Gem Stones in Metal Clay

I am often asked from students on my Fingerprint Jewellery and Keepsake Jewellery Courses, how to set stones in Silver Clay.

Setting gemstones in metal clay, is a relatively simple process. Gemstones can be added both before or after firing.  However it is important that you use fireable stones for metal clay, if you wish to set the gemstones before firing.

I have put together these quick instructions,  to compliment your Silver Clay Jewellery Training and help provide you with a little more knowledge and confidence when setting gemstone's into your Silver Clay designs.

Setting stones in Metal Clay

It is important to understand that different gemstones, react differently to heat.  Some gemstones can withstand heat, whilst others cannot.  It’s therefore important to understand whether the gemstones that you intend to use are capable of withstanding heat.  This is important, as it will determine the method that you use to set the gemstones into the Silver Clay. 

If you wish to set gemstones into silver clay before firing, you will need to use fireable gemstones for silver clay.

Techniques for Setting gemstones in Silver Clay before Firing

If you wish to use fireable gemstones and set your gemstone into silver clay before firing, please use one of the following simple techniques for setting stones in metal clay before firing:

1. Very simply, push your fireable gemstone into the silver clay, ensuring that the edges are covered. If you do not set the gemstone deep enough and the edges are not covered, the stone is unlikely to be secure after firing.

2. Alternatively, push the fireable gemstone into the silver clay, then use Art Clay Silver Syringe, to pipe a bezel around the edge of the gemstone, ensuring that the edges are fully covered, allowing for shrinkage.
3. As the piece is drying, use a paintbrush and water, to smooth the edges.
4. Whichever, of these two methods you use, leave to dry naturally for 24 hours, then tidy them up, using a sanding sponge.

Tips for firing gemstones in metal clay

When firing silver clay with gemstones, remember that they are temperamental. Even if they are lab created gemstones and capable of withstanding heat, there are certain stones and colours that react differently to heat. In some cases, therefore, you may notice colour changes after firing. Unfortunately nothing is guaranteed, so it is important to conduct a few tests and see how different stones and colours react, before you set them into important designs.

If you are in any doubt as to whether the gemstones you will be using are capable of withstanding heat, I would recommend that you create an indentation and glue in after firing. 

If you are torch firing a silver clay design, which includes a gemstone, I would recommend that you place the gemstone face down when heating and remember to let the gemstones slow down naturally.

After firing, let your design cool down naturally in the air. It is important to let gemstones cool down slowly and naturally. Never be tempted to submerge them into water or quench.

Techniques for Setting gemstones in Metal Clay after Firing

1. Create an indentation in the Silver Clay, for your gemstone, before firing. Then glue the stone into place, once your metal clay design is fired, polish and complete. Don’t forget that metal clay shrinks during firing, so be sure to make the indentation bigger than the gem stone to allow for shrinkage.

If you are new to Silver Clay Jewellery Making and would like to advance your Silver Clay Jewellery Knowledge, please take a look at our wide range of Silver Clay Jewellery Keepsake Courses.  If you are interested in starting your own successful and rewarding Keepsake Jewellery Business, please download our FREE Guide.